Goya in Zaragoza

Museo Goya, Ibercaja Collection

Goya, The fight against the mamelukes, 1814 (Wikipedia)

It’s really hot: it’s the heat of summer. I didn’t even get my family to come with me: ‘A museum again’. They just don’t understand. It’s like entering to a candy shop to me! In museums is where I learn: I learn from the greatest masters. Plus, it’s fresh in there... Goya is not one of my favorites, but he is one of the greatest, and the more you study him, the more you will understand his genius.

(Image: Museo Goya)

I am talking about the Museo de Goya, Ibercaja Collection, in Zaragoza, steps away from basilica of Our Lady of Pilar. It opened this year, but we aren’t talking about a completely new museum. It was first opened in 1979 with the collection of the professor Camón Aznar, in the Renaissance palace of Jerónimo Cósida (1525). In 2008 it was remodelled, with the economical support of Ibercaja and the Real Sociedad Económica de Aragón in order to adapt it to the current needs to exhibit. And really, it was all worth it.

(Image:zaragozaturismo.es)

Its 3 floors are articulated with Goya’s shape as central concept: his precedents, his artwork and his legacy. We can also see the collection of Camón Aznar, the funds of Ibercaja and of the Real Sociedad Económica, along with some other posterior purchases. The spaces could not be better presented: from the mirror room to the chandelier for Goya’s work to the dimly light hall of engravings in a black atmosphere.

What could I tell you about my impressions on the works I saw? I keep many on mind, and I could not tell you which one is my favorite.

Self´-portrait, 1773

I was taken aback by a 27 year old Goya self-portrait... but with an incredible mastery... By then he was already in Madrid, painting tapestry sketches.

It was really interesting to see his copies of Velázquez, Menipo and Esopo, for example, or the sketches for his fresco in El Pilar “Adoration of the name of God” (1771) and his “The 2nd of May”: The fight against the mamelukes (1814): you can see his evolution, how he gains skill and spontaneity... (maybe I will choose this one as favorite...)

Adoration of the name of God, 1771

María Luisa de Parma, 1799

And the portrait of the Queen María Luisa... he did it merciless, hiding nothing, almost disdainfully... He started it in 1789 and continued it in 1799, which is why he added some wrinkles to her face and changed the dress to one more according to the changing trends.

The hall of engravings was impressive: there were around 500, organized according to his albums, so that you can have an overall vision.

In the rest of halls you can admire works by Berruguete, Pacheco, Tiépolo, Mengs, Meléndez, Fortuny, de Haes, Pradilla, Beruete, Pinazo, Palencia, Vaquero Palacios, Menchu Gal, Saura, Toral, Guayasamín, between others.

(Image: C.del Rosso)

If you ever happen to go to Zaragoza, I’d suggest going visit this museum. It won’t disappoint.

museogoya.ibercaja.es

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