(Image: C. del Rosso) |
Madrid is full of
little precious museums and many of them, far away from its touristic routes. Believe
me: it’s worth it to go beyond the Reina, el Prado and Thyssen.
The Sorolla Museum is
one of them. It’s fantastic because it used to be his own home. The artist
bought the terrain in 1909 and he would be in charge personally of everything:
the design, the decoration… Even when out of town, he would take care of every
single detail through letters; for example, the façade was designed by him. He
would take objects from everywhere he’d travel to. In 1910 he bought Beruete
the nearest terrain to have more room for his gardens. In 1911 the house would
be finished.
Sorolla, Clotilde sitting on the sofa, 1910 |
He always wanted it to
be a Museum. Clotilde, knowing her husband’s desire, names in her will their
son Joaquín as first director and lends him the terrain as his new home. She
died in 1929. The transfer to the State was carried out in 1931.
When you cross the
door, you leave behind all the city’s hustle. It’s pleasant to stroll through
the gardens himself designed with flowers coming from everywhere, like
Alhambra’s myrtus, still existing today. Nowadays they are a bit different
because the light conditions have changed because of new buildings being built
nearby; but they are still pretty all year long, when snowy, when sunny, during
winter and during spring…
Sorolla, House Sorolla's Garden, 1918 |
There are 3 gardens,
each one offers a unique identity and as a whole they reveal his love for
Andalusia: the entrance garden is more like a patio and alludes to the Alcázar
of Sevilla with its fountain in the centre; the second one, with its columns,
the robed Roman in the background, the old tiles, the “riad” and its fountain,
references to the Generalife of Granada; and the third one has an
Italian-Andalusian spirit, with a water tank and a pergola. You will come
across with sculptures that could work as a preview of what you find indoors.
House Sorolla's living room (Image: Museo Sorolla) |
The whole building
keeps still today Sorolla’s family life spirit. The ground floor maintains its
original furniture: its living room, the dining room with friezes painted by
him, the kitchen with his pottery collection and the Andalusian patio, of
Cordovan inspiration, which supplies the whole floor with natural light.
Sorolla's Atelier, Room III (Image: Wikipedia) |
Entering the ateliers
was the most exciting part! They are connected with the rest of the house, but
they have an independent entry. They have zenithal light. The
first atelier was used to mount canvases and frames, and today it’s used as a
hall for temporary exhibitions. The second one was where he’d receive his
clients and showed his paintings. The third and last one was where he used to
work. There’s where we can find his last unfinished painting, with the palette
and paintings just as he left them before having his hemiplegia attack. It will
surprise you to see all the walls covered by paintings: it was the trend by
then. He’d work in his atelier only in Autumn and Winter, since he would go to
paint outdoors as soon as he could.
Sorolla's Atelier, Room III (Image: Wikipedia) |
The 1st
floor had all the rooms and the sewing room; these were remodeled to have more
exhibition halls when the museum was opened. There is a 2nd floor
that was first aimed for the servants, but then was occupied by Joaquín. There
live the administration and registry of the museum.
Sorolla, Mother, 1895 |
Can you imagine
Clotilde there? And the painter immersed in his works, portraying illustrious
characters of the époque? She’d be there with her feathered hat or her gray
dress, or walking along the shore with her daughter María in Biarritz or Zarauz
or in that jewel we can see in the painting “Mother”. You also will see the
portrays of his children and his self-portraits. And also impressing sculptures
of Capuz, Benlliure and Troubetzkoy.
Of course, his full
of life, lightful beach painting or some of his sketches (well, actual
paintings rather than sketches) for the commission by Mr. Huntington for the
Hispanic Society, Vision of Spain, will not be missed.
Sorolla, Walk on the Beach, 1909 |
Don’t waste your
chance if you ever can afford going! You’ll sure want to return.
Sorolla, House Sorolla's Garden, 1920 |
Sources: Museo Sorolla's web
Guía
del Museo Sorolla, Madrid, J.I. Gil Impresores, 2009
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